Historical Context of MB&F

Established in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser, MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) pioneered the concept of a horological laboratory, combining micro-engineering with kinetic sculpture. The brand’s journey began with the Horological Machine No.1 (HM1) in 2007, characterised by its three-dimensional movement architecture and avant-garde case design. Subsequent collections have expanded to include Legacy Machines reinterpretations of historical complications and Performance Art collaborations, earning nine Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards, including the prestigious Aiguille d’Or in 2022.

Dial Architecture and Technical Construction

The SP One’s dial arrangement defies conventional horological design through its inclined time display positioned at 6 o’clock. A black DLC-coated titanium disc, angled at 30 degrees, employs conical gearing to preserve legibility despite the tilt – a technical solution requiring precise tooth profile calculations to minimise torque loss. The applied baton hour markers enhance the minimalist aesthetic, while the half-polished/half-frosted hands are designed to catch even the slightest glimmer of light. An exceptional level of legibility is achieved thanks to the more natural viewing angle.  This inclined flange, rendered in sky-blue or anthracite depending on model variant, creates an amphitheatre-like framing effect around the central components of the movement.

Movement Design and Finishing

At the heart of the movement lies the manually wound SP One calibre, boasting 191 components, including a 31-jewel architecture. Thanks to the strategic bridge placement, the suspended mainspring barrel and balance wheel appear to float, with the balance operating at 18,000vph (2.5Hz). Finishing techniques combine satin-brushed bridges with polished anglage, executed using traditional hand tools rather than CNC milling. Micro-blasted surfaces contrast with mirror-polished chatons, while the three-dimensional structure of the movement allows unobstructed views of the gear train through the crystals on the front and back of the case.

Case Engineering and Wearability

The SP One’s case owes its streamlined profile to a monobloc construction comprising 19 components. The platinum and rose gold variants bear their respective metal weight, with platinum winning the contest. A lug-to-lug dimension of 41.9mm enhances the watch’s presence on the wrist without compromising comfort.

The detachable lugs, separated from the main case by a 0.8mm gap, are delicately shaped to conform to the curvature of the wrist. The bezel-free design seamlessly merges the front and back sapphire crystals into the case middle, polished to a mirror finish that eliminates sharp edges. Water resistance remains at 30 metres, consistent with MB&F’s focus on artistic expression rather than technical extremes.

The top crystal is a fantastic piece in its own right – with a high dome and a raised base – holding and protecting the floating elements on display. The view from the sides is spectacular, allowing curious onlookers to appreciate the multilayered architecture in detail.

Final Notes and Thoughts

This release highlights MB&F’s ability to reinvent itself while preserving its core design principles. The SP One’s synthesis of classical proportions and experimental mechanics demonstrates the brand’s ongoing evolution within the world of haute horlogerie, bridging the gap between the avant-garde concepts of the Horological Machines and the historical inspirations of the Legacy Machines. Its development reflects two decades of accumulated technical expertise in three-dimensional movement architecture and hand-finishing traditions.

MB&F’s unique approach to combining horological elements remains evident in the SP One. I enjoyed the sublime comfort on the wrist and the legibility, as well as the other notable features. The aired construction and intriguing architecture look exceptional in the 38mm round case.