The most complex travelling watch: BOVET Récital 28 “Prowess 1”

The BOVET Récital 28 “Prowess 1” is an extraordinary timepiece that revolutionises global timekeeping. This masterpiece addresses the complexities posed by Daylight Saving Time (DST) and the discrepancies in time zone adjustments around the world. With its innovative roller system, the Récital 28 allows travellers to effortlessly adjust the watch to any of the world’s 24 time zones, including specific variations such as American Summer Time and European Winter Time. Beyond its unparalleled functionality, this timepiece also reflects BOVET’s commitment to haute horlogerie with features such as an expanded flying tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with roller-based indications, and a remarkable 10-day power reserve – all meticulously hand-finished and housed in a 46.3mm Writing Desk case.

Limited to just eight pieces per year, the Récital 28 “Prowess 1” represents the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry and innovation. Available in red gold, platinum, and Grade 5 titanium, this timepiece features hand-engraved bridges and an entirely hand-finished movement comprising 744 components. The new design of the double-sided flying tourbillon, featuring a lightweight cage, offers a mesmerising view of the mechanical ballet, while the perpetual calendar’s roller-based system provides a captivating display of the passage of time. The Récital 28 “Prowess 1” not only sets a new standard for world time watches but also represents a significant leap forward in the art of fine watchmaking, offering a unique blend of complexity and ease of use.

The most complete mechanical diving watch: Singer Divetrack Automatic 24-h Central Chronograph

The Singer Divetrack is an innovative diving watch that combines iconic design with cutting-edge functionality. Unveiled at the end of March 2024, this timepiece is designed to meet the rigorous demands of divers while offering a new standard in chronograph technology. Its standout feature is the 24-hour central chronograph, specifically designed to monitor an entire diving session, from the dive itself to the critical surface intervals required for safe diving practices. This bold new design not only enhances the diving experience with precision and style but also redefines what a diver’s watch can be, merging tradition with modern innovation.

Crafted from Grade 5 titanium and marine-grade stainless steel, the Divetrack boasts a robust 300-metre water resistance, which makes it an indispensable tool for professional divers. Its sandwich construction, incorporating three sapphire crystals, ensures maximum durability and visibility, while the unidirectional bezel and advanced luminous features guarantee optimal legibility even in the deepest waters. The watch is powered by the Singer AgenGraphe movement, a marvel of horological engineering with 479 components and a 72-hour power reserve, representing the pinnacle of mechanical ingenuity. With only 25 pieces available in 2024, the Divetrack is not just a watch, but a statement of precision, craftsmanship, and the relentless pursuit of excellence in diving technology.

The return of the magnificent Duomètre: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronograph Moon

A masterpiece of horological innovation, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronograph Moon seamlessly combines the precision of a chronograph with the poetic allure of a moon-phase display. Powered by the new Calibre 391, this timepiece showcases the patented Duomètre movement, which features two independent gear trains to ensure that the operation of the complications does not affect the accuracy of the timekeeping. The result is a chronograph capable of measuring time intervals down to 1/6th of a second, and a moon phase complication that elegantly tracks the lunar cycle over 29.53 days. The timepiece is available in two versions: one in a platinum case with a copper-coloured dial and the other in a pink gold case with a silver dial, both exuding contemporary elegance with their hand-stitched alligator leather straps.

The design of the Duomètre Chronograph Moon is a testament to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s dedication to both technical mastery and aesthetic refinement. The dial features a distinctive three-counter layout with a moon-phase display integrated into the chronograph subdial, balanced by a Night and Day display. Openworked sections on the dial and the transparent caseback reveal the intricate mechanics of the calibre, including the beautifully decorated bridges with sunrayed Geneva stripes. The new case design, inspired by 19th-century savonette pocket watches, combines rounded contours with a mix of polished, brushed, and micro-blasted finishes to create a captivating play of light. With its blend of technical sophistication, aesthetic beauty, and innovative spirit, the Duomètre Chronograph Moon stands as a proud symbol of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s heritage in haute horlogerie.

The battle for records: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon by Maison Piaget represents a monumental breakthrough in the realm of horology, cementing its status as a pivotal innovation in watchmaking history. Commemorating Piaget’s 150th anniversary, this timepiece maintains the slim profile of its predecessor, measuring just 2 mm in thickness, yet it astonishingly houses the complexity of a flying tourbillon within its ultra-thin profile. The result of a rigorous and creative process involving the redesign of 90% of its components and the development of new machinery, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon combines technical virtuosity with aesthetic elegance. This marvel not only achieves unprecedented thinness but does so without compromising on elegance or functionality, embodying Piaget’s mantra of always doing “better than necessary.”

The conception and execution of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon required a reimagining of the horological landscape, pushing beyond conventional boundaries with a flying tourbillon that is perfectly integrated into its minuscule form factor. With a diameter of 41.5mm and a water resistance of up to 20 metres, it transitions seamlessly between everyday wear and extraordinary showcase. A testament to Piaget’s relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation, this timepiece is a masterful fusion of form and function, with each component optimised for both performance and aesthetics. Bringing together the craftsmanship of Piaget’s Ateliers de l’Extraordinaire, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon not only celebrates the brand’s rich heritage, but also paves the way for its future, challenging the limits of watchmaking.

The return of the gentleman: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric

The Toric Petite Seconde by Parmigiani Fleurier is a captivating revival of the Toric line, known for its distinctive presence in the world of high-end watchmaking. This collection represents a bold departure from conventional design, embracing a more nuanced and serene elegance that appeals to the discerning taste of the modern gentleman. With roots tracing back to the inception of the Parmigiani Fleurier brand in 1996, the new Toric generation isn’t just a nod to its heritage but a redefinition of masculine elegance. Breaking away from established norms, the Toric Petite Seconde and its siblings, such as the Chronograph Rattrapante, are masterpieces of fluid design and technical innovation, embodying a fresh vision of luxury. The collection’s homage to the fluidity of modern design, combined with the use of noble materials and a dedication to watchmaking culture, sets a new benchmark for elegance and sophistication in timepieces.

Delving deeper into the aesthetics and functionality of the Toric Petite Seconde reveals a watch that carries on the legacy of the Toric line with contemporary grace. Inspired by historic Doric columns and the geometry of the torus, the collection has evolved while maintaining its identity through the signature knurled bezel – a testament to Parmigiani Fleurier’s commitment to preserving horological heritage. This piece combines modern fluidity with timeless elegance in its design, featuring a case and dial that exude a discreet purity. Crafted exclusively in gold or platinum, with hands, indexes, and movements also in gold, the Toric Petite Seconde stands as a beacon of refined masculinity. Its exquisite alligator strap treated with a nubuck finish and adorned with a “punto a mano” sartorial stitch adds an extra layer of sophistication, making this timepiece not only a tool for measuring time, but also a profound statement of modern elegance and horological artistry.

Importance and concluding remarks

The wristwatches presented here illustrate not only the evolution of Haute Horlogerie but also a profound understanding of how traditional watchmaking can benefit from technological advancements. While it is possible to achieve exceptional finishes through complete automation, the touch of a skilled artisan remains irreplaceable in the hearts of purists. Beyond perfection – or programmed imperfection – what the human heart really craves is connection. A collector will invariably associate their watch with the individual (or individuals) who crafted and refined it. The uniquely imperfect perfection of artisanal work is appreciated and sought after by those with a discerning appreciation for high-end watchmaking.