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Vacheron Constantin – a brand that celebrated its 270th anniversary last month – is likely to become a case study used in strategy, business, and creativity courses at the world’s leading universities.

And this is because, even after all this time, it somehow remains both über-cool and firmly grounded in today’s reality – simultaneously a ‘trendsetter’ and the guardian of an extraordinary legacy spanning more than a quarter of a millennium.

Demonstrating its ongoing leadership in the zeitgeist, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled two new additions to its sporty chic Overseas collection, offering successful, contemporary, on-trend models, while retaining a design that is certain to stand the test of time.

I had the pleasure of being the first journalist to see, try on and admire the two models at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture in Geneva. More than anything, they stand out because of their extraordinary dials.

The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is available either with a rose gold dial that perfectly complements the rose gold case and bracelet, or with a burgundy lacquered dial of exquisite depth – a feat of craftsmanship that only Vacheron can achieve – housed within a white-gold case.

Both models feature 41.5mm cases and gold bracelets – available in either rose gold or white gold – along with two rubber straps in a variety of colours.

This elegant and legible perpetual calendar is dynamic and user-friendly, powered by the 1120 QP/1 movement – an automatic calibre with 276 components and a 40-hour power reserve, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. The uncluttered dial clearly displays the hours, minutes, date, day of the week, month, leap year, and moon phases.

Not only did I have the privilege of being the first journalist to see these watches at the Vacheron Constantin manufacture, but I also had the pleasure of spending two hours with Christian Selmoni – the brand’s inimitable Style & Heritage Director – discussing the two models. My conclusion is simple: the new Overseas models are truly a wonderful gift from Vacheron Constantin to its enthusiasts on the occasion of the 270th anniversary of the brand. Happy anniversary!

Christian Selmoni: For this burgundy dial, we have actually used the same process that we did for the blue version. The dial is sun-brushed, and then we apply different varnishes and lacquers that create this colour. On top, on the blue dial we have some transparent lacquer that adds depth – one of the signatures of the Overseas line. It works beautifully not only with the blue and green dials, but, in my opinion, with the burgundy one as well. As for the rest, the watch follows the same codes as the other perpetual calendars in the Overseas collection.

For the burgundy version, things are slightly different: the dial is made from an alloy nicknamed ‘tombak’ – essentially, brass mixed with other elements.

In contrast, on the rose gold version, we have a 5N rose gold dial – so this is solid gold. This is basically the natural colour of gold. It is also sun-brushed, with some lacquer finish as well, in order to preserve the same signature approach to dial construction within the Overseas line. So, it’s a very different procedure for the gold dial.

Raluca Michailov: Oh, wow! And you suggested this kind of strap, in white? I have to admit, this is a bit unexpected… Or not so much.

In fact, this is the very question we ask ourselves when we have our creation committees – which colour should we choose for these additional straps? We’ve noticed that quite a few clients particularly appreciate the white one. People living in sunny countries use the metal bracelet most of the time. However, when the weather gets too hot and humid, the metal bracelet can become uncomfortable, so they like to have the option of switching to the rubber one.

True.

And they love this white colour, which is somewhat surprising. But it really reflects our clients’ taste. As for the other option, I think it makes perfect sense to have this grape colour for the strap. As you can see, on the rose gold version with the rose gold dial, the accents are blue. That’s why we thought it would be great to have a blue strap as well. For several years now, we have been incorporating more and more coloured straps into the Overseas collection.

Yes, I’ve noticed. And it’s a good thing, in my opinion.

Yes, it’s partly to reflect our clients’ wishes and partly because we believe it gives a less conservative image – even though a small majority of our clients still prefer that classic look. But, in any case, I think it pairs very well with the blue one.

It does. I have to agree.

It’s not always easy to find a colour that matches this kind of combination. There is also a chestnut shade that could work well, too. And let’s not forget, these are rubber bracelets – so they lean more towards the sporty side. But they’re really quite cool.

So, in a nutshell, these are the novelties. The calibre remains the same – the 1120 QP, a super nice, super thin movement. We still love its amazing thinness – 8.1mm in total, which is a major advantage. And, of course, we have the signature Overseas rotor, with the Wind Rose. Altogether, it’s quite a gorgeous combination.

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