Coming to this year, Vacheron Constantin presented a compact and very well-balanced collection, under the suggestive name of Less’Ential. I fully agree that sometimes, many times in fact, less is more, so what more would you need besides a grand complication, new models in the Overseas collection, a tourbillon+openface, a new dial for the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date and a moonphase retrograde date for the Overseas? Plus, of course, the green dial of the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon? A lovely, deep green dial that goes perfectly with the platinum case, which also encapsulates a tourbillon regulator integrated into the ultrathin Calibre 2160/1.

This is the favorite watch from this year of Christian Selmoni, the brand’s Style and Heritage Director and I tend to agree with him. The regulator, meant to fight gravity effects on the isochronism of the balance spring, has an 18,000vph frequency. The calibre, including the peripheral rotor, is visible through the transparent sapphire caseback. To conclude, I will just add the 80 hours of power reserve and the lovely green alligator strap.

I only enjoy complications in watches – so I need to at least count the complications housed by the extraordinary Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication by Vacheron: Hours and Minutes of mean solar time; Gregorian Perpetual Calendar displayed by a retrograde date, day of the week, month, and leap year; Precision Moon-phase displaying the age of the moon in both the Northern and Southern Hemisphere; Minute Repeater, activated by a slide on the left of the case; Tourbillon regulator; Sky chart; Sidereal hour display. The watch is powered by the new in-house hand-wound calibre 2755 TMRCCQP, with 774 components.

That being said, please don’t overlook the new downsized self-winding Overseas models – they are the perfect sports/elegant watch, a model I have had a crush on since launch and then in all its iterations.

For the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date, the collection explores new territories with its first retrograde display, a Maison’s signature. Combining two essential classical inspirations within a sporty case, the watch pairs its retrograde date with a precision moon phase. Beyond the design combo, the “age of the moon” shows the days since the last new moon, precisely reflecting the heavenly body’s cycle, says the Maison.

The Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde openface features an openface dial revealing the movement of this exceptional watch. „Despite its slim profile, the 41 mm pink gold case upholds grand High Watchmaking traditions: the retrograde date display overlooks the Maltese Cross tourbillon and its refined finishes. The Calibre 2162 R31 and its decorated gold peripheral weight push the boundaries of contemporary fine watchmaking, capturing the essence of the grand Geneva tradition,” the watchmaker added.