Passion fruit and gold green in Geneva
We were happy to discover Glashutte Original in the basement of Breguet’s Rue du Rhone boutique. Their new Serenade Luna comes in a fetching red gold case, very nicely showcased by what has to be this year’s best shade of green – they call it golden green. The 32.5 mm case has a bezel set with 48 diamonds, the crown is also topped with a rose-cut diamond, the moonphase is very ingeniously displayed in the dark sky, while the dial positively glows due to the sunray finish. The moonphase is actually made of white Tahiti mother of pearl, just like the sky disk, which also features printed gold-coloured stars.
The in-house calibre is automatic and has a 60-hour power reserve – a very beautiful movement.
Upstairs, Breguet also did a very summerish, cool-breeze-vibe Reine de Naples. This model is actually one of the few remaining instantly recognizable watch silhouettes, so we are positively thrilled to see it being cleverly updated, at the same time retaining its impressive identity.
This cool mint watch is just like a perfect scoop of pistacchio icecream – the mother of pearl dial goes perfectly with the green numerals and the spatter of diamonds, which are also to be found on the bezel and on the crown. The self-winding calibre features balance spring, lever and escape wheel in silicon.
We also took notice of Breguet’s new Marine chronograph in 18-carat gold. The calibre is self-winding with date and seconds subdial. Minutes and hours counters. Balance spring in silicon. The dial is lovely – blue, in gold, hand-engraved on a rose engine, set with 8 baguette-cut diamonds, approx. 0,24ct. The bezel is also set with 90 baguette-cut diamonds. At 42.3mm, it somehow manages to sit very nicely on a slender feminine wrist.
So far, two very beautiful green ladies watches, both highly desirable, both in shades of green.
And now, from the “hors concours” brands to a beautiful launch by one of the Geneva Watch Days veterans: we were the last appointment of the team at H. Moser & Cie, but Nathalie had faith that we would come and she packed everything but the watches – Thank you, Nathalie!
The new models are truly a sight for sore and jaded eyes like ours – H. Moser & Cie teamed up with Studio Underd0g (a brand founded by Richard Benc in 2021) and the result is something truly special and mouthwatering: The Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit. We have never seen a watch that is so minimalistic, so subtle, so stripped of almost everything (logo, markers, etc) and, at the same time, so powerful, so lush, so vibrant and alive.
The dial is constructed in layers – the purple lacquered sunburst dial is the base, as the skin of the passion fruit, whereas the Maracuja “Grand Feu” enamel dial (on top of the yellow gold base) has a hammered texture and represents the glowing, bright, delicious flesh of the fruit. Richard has played with geometry, to change perspectives a bit, so you will find that the dial circle encompasses another circle, a square and a triangle.
Powered by Moser’s famous Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre, it offers hours and minutes display, a perpetual calendar, oversized date display, a month indicator via the central hand, a small seconds at six o’clock, a power reserve indicator at nine o’clock, and a leap year indicator.
We immensely liked this watch, but positively fell in love with the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit, for it has the perfect multilayer dial: Coarse Dégradé Amber and Royal Purple, also signifying the outside and the inside of the fruit. This dial is also very vibrant and attention-grabbing, but the wearer’s gaze can rest on its (deceptively) simpler surface. Although this timepiece looks much more minimalist than its “brother”, there are several things going on the dial, revealing themselves to the loving eye of the wearer: hours and minutes, a 60-second counter via the centre hand, a 30-minute counter at three o’clock, a seconds register at nine o’clock, and the mono-pusher chrono.
Caveat: these watches will make you hungry. And will bring you joy.
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