History abounds with examples of women who have demonstrated remarkable ingenuity and vision, offering groundbreaking solutions to the world.

While the mechanical timepiece may not have been invented by a woman (at least not according to documentation), a significant milestone occurred in 1810 when Queen Caroline Murat of Naples commissioned Abraham-Louis Breguet to create an oblong-shaped repeating wristwatch (delivered in December 1811). Just a few years later, it is recorded that Countess Koscowicz of Hungary wore a Patek Philippe wristwatch. Interestingly, pocket watches remained the preferred timepiece for men for several decades following these early examples. Many gentlemen of the era considered wristwatches too delicate and impractical for everyday wear.

Following the widespread adoption of wristwatches, women’s timepieces started to take on a more refined aesthetic, featuring various decorative elements and a distinct, elegant look. Nowadays, however, the distinction between men’s and women’s watches has become increasingly blurred. Modern watch enthusiasts, irrespective of their gender, are more likely to choose a timepiece based on personal style rather than gender-specific labels. We are now witnessing a trend where women confidently sport larger, traditionally “masculine” watches, while men appreciate the elegance of smaller sizes, pastel colours, and diamond accents. Although many watch brands have moved away from explicit gender classifications, the industry may still offer some watches in smaller sizes that cater to traditional preferences for a daintier aesthetic.

Audemars Piguet introduces two elegant 34mm Royal Oak Selfwinding timepieces: the first model exudes glamour with its 18-carat pink gold case and a stunning new vivid pink dial; the second timepiece offers a powerful two-tone aesthetic, featuring a combination of stainless steel and pink gold that extends seamlessly onto the dial. Despite their small sizes, the watches are powered by the mechanical self-winding Calibre 5800.

Legendary – the Royal Oak look

During a time when the traditional watch industry was being dominated by the inexpensive Japanese quartz, Audemars Piguet’s managing director George Golay commissioned the young Swiss industrial designer Gerald Genta to create a steel sports watch which had never been done before… The result was Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, “the costliest stainless steel watch in the world”, which appeared in 1972 and forever changed the world of steel watches.

The Royal Oak broke the mold of traditional timepieces with its unique shape. Instead of the classic round form, Genta opted for a tonneau case with a prominent octagonal bezel. He reportedly drew inspiration for this design from the shape of a deep-sea diver’s helmet. The aquatic theme is further emphasised by the eight exposed screws on the bezel. The bold case is complemented by a seamlessly integrated bracelet (a technical feat in watchmaking) and a dial featuring a distinctive “petite tapisserie” pattern, adding a touch of dynamism often missing in other sports watches. The name “Royal Oak” itself reinforces the nautical connection, by referencing a series of British Royal Navy ships.

The models presented today differ little to nothing from the original model. Despite its 50 years of existence, this look is fresher than ever. The newest 34mm Royal Oak Selfwinding watch boasts a case and bracelet entirely made of 18-carat pink gold. Audemars Piguet’s signature touch – the alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers – takes center stage. This meticulous finishing technique not only highlights the warm tones of the pink gold but also creates a captivating interplay of light across the surfaces.

The second timepiece embraces a contemporary two-tone aesthetic, achieved by combining stainless steel and 18-carat pink gold. The bezel, crown, and bracelet studs are crafted in warm pink gold, creating a striking contrast with the stainless steel of the case middle, the caseback, and the bracelet links. Even the AP folding clasp, made of stainless steel, receives a touch of pink gold for a cohesive design. Both materials are finished with an elaborate alternation of satin brushing and polished chamfer. The case is 8.8mm thick and 34mm in diameter, ensuring a proportional look and a comfortable wear.

The Royal Oak Ref. 77450OR.OO.1361OR.01 boasts a stunning “Grande Tapisserie” dial in a vibrant shade of pink, achieved using a cutting-edge technique called Atomic Layer Deposition (ALD). This relatively new process ensures a consistent and vivid colour. The sleek hand-applied pink gold hour markers and hands enhance the dial’s legibility, filled with luminescent material for clear visibility in low-light conditions. An applied “Audemars Piguet” signature in matching pink gold, placed at the 12 o’clock position, completes the cohesive look. At 3 o’clock, a date window displays the date in black against a pink background that complements the dial. The minute and second scale and the “Swiss Made” inscription at 6 o’clock are also printed in black to provide contrast.

The second piece also features a two-tone design on the dial. The Ref. 77450SR.OO.1361SR.03 showcases a captivating interplay of colour with its gray PVD-coated “Grande Tapisserie” motif contrasted by the gleaming pink gold accents of the indexes and central hands. The luminescent material emits a green glow in the dark, making legibility a strong argument for choosing this marvel as a sports watch. This model features a minute track and a discreetly printed “Swiss Made” inscription in white around the dial’s edge, while a date window at 3 o’clock displays the date in white against a matching gray background.

watchmaking expertise – Selfwinding Calibre 5800

The 34mm Royal Oak showcases Audemars Piguet’s commitment to mechanical watchmaking. While some small-diameter watches use quartz movements, the Royal Oak boasts well-designed mechanics – the Calibre 5800 self-winding movement. This impressive movement measures a mere 23.9mm in diameter and 4mm in thickness, demonstrating Audemars Piguet’s expertise in miniaturization. Despite its compact size, the Calibre 5800 delivers good performance with a 4Hz escapement and a 50-hour power reserve. The balance wheel with its gold timing weights indicates not only a well-tuned escapement, but also complexity and attention to detail, ensuring reliable timekeeping.

The movement can be admired through the transparent sapphire caseback. Although offering a captivating glimpse into the inner workings of the timepiece, it only reveals a part of the story. Collectors can admire the Royal Oak collection’s dedicated 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight, a signature element that ensures the main barrel is wound with every wrist movement. Beyond its functionality, the movement itself is a perfect example of AP’s watchmaking artistry, being decorated with a variety of well-executed finishes. These include Côtes de Genève stripes on the top bridges, satin finishes and various brushing techniques for texture, along with circular graining and polished chamfers for added contrast and depth.

In touch with my feminine side? Or just a simple desire for beauty?

Although my background is engineering, I have always been captivated by the beauty of delicate objects. This fascination extends to the world of timepieces, where I am equally impressed by technical marvels – such as miniaturization and intricate mechanics. A watch that seamlessly blends visual beauty with elegant mechanics captures my attention. This combination is precisely why I find these two pieces so interesting. Would I wear one of them? Absolutely! The 34mm size of these Royal Oaks falls right within my comfort zone, as my smallest watch is already a 33mm vintage piece with a titanium case and bracelet. The “lightweight” nature of the case (size) further enhances comfort, making the weight of the gold construction surprisingly unnoticeable. The pink dial version is particularly charming and playful, a nice choice for summer or to add a touch of joy to any outfit. The two-tone option is equally desirable, with the muted gray brought to life by the pops of pink gold. Both watches have the potential to be practical all-day companions.

My impression is that the woman wearing the two-tone Royal Oak wants to have nothing to do with the one wearing the pink dial version. But I love them both (characters and watches) since they are both beautiful, feminine, and apparently delicate yet strong. And they both know what they want – the extraordinary.