Therefore, one can easily see why we can find some important names from the watch industry on the list of the competitors trying to create the thinnest watch in the world.

Some brands made it their mission to prove that haute horlogerie can be squeezed into a few millimeters. Very few, actually.

Let’s start with Piaget, since they have always been at the top of the list of watch brands that have managed to condense both know-how and craftsmanship into less than 2mm.

The first such attempt occurred in 1957, when Valentin Piaget came up with a groundbreaking watch movement only 2mm thick. Of course, things become more challenging when you try to fit this movement into the case, while trying to maintain the ultra-thin appearance.

But things were only getting started. Soon afterwards, the brand started coming up with ever new models at SIHH (currently Watches and Wonders), breaking ever new records with thin watches.

In 2013, the brand launched Piaget Altiplano 900P, achieving a completely new and innovative performance, i.e., the only 3.65mm thick mechanical watch. Its case was the actual novelty, as it seamlessly merged with the movement, thus creating more than harmony and coalescence to reduce the space inside the watch.

Two years later, Jaeger-LeCoultre entered the stage of ultra-thin watch manufactories, with Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Squelette, measuring 3.60mm.

Not only did this model break Piaget’s 2013 record, but its dial provided the perfect background for the display of the fully skeletonized movement, the sapphire crystal caseback arousing admiration as well. All these were complemented with genuine examples of watchmaking art and craftsmanship due to the use of enameling and guilloché techniques on the rich chestnut brown dial.

2018 is the year when Piaget once again goes to extremes and brings to the attention of both the media and watch enthusiasts a model that outshines its predecessors with an only… 2mm thin case.

However, for the time being, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept remains… well, just a concept, as the watch is considered too fragile to be worn on the wrist.

But things continue to develop in the minds and workshops of Piaget watchmakers, and two years later, in 2020, the watch is presented not only as a concept, but also to those eager to wear record-breaking timepieces on their wrists.

For this model, Piaget continues to use the integrated case and movement construction in order to save space; also on this occasion, the brand comes up with a new material that fully supports the idea of the thinnest mechanical watch in the world – the cobalt alloy, used to make the case.

An incredible display of micro-engineering, passion (if we were to think not only of the history of the brand itself, but also of the long way they have traveled in this area of ultra-thin watches), innovation (the integrated case and movement, the materials used), as well as design, the Piaget Altiplano watches manage to retain their elegance and refinement over the years.

And here’s how Piaget left us thinking they would have the last word when it comes to ultra-thin watches.

Yet, we never cease to be amazed by the watchmakers’ ambition, dedication and innovative capacity that take us to the next models on our list:

Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection

Though launched less than a decade ago, the Bulgari collection has gained both popularity and momentum, setting new records in the watchmaking world. We mention here the thinnest tourbillon/minute-repeater/chronograph movement, totaling no less than 7 records.

These were the small (yet big and important) steps taken in order to get to Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, a watch measuring as little as 1.80mm in thickness. And if we were to summarize this watch in numbers, here’s how we would describe it:

• 3 years of research and development, in partnership with Concepto, the movement designer
• 40mm in diameter
• 50-hour power reserve

Designwise, this watch relies on the well-known pillars of the collection: the integrated bracelet and the gray color range.

Also in terms of design and innovation, the dial features a QR code. Once scanned, it links to a video about the watch, as well as to an exclusive NFT artwork.

The similarity with its predecessor – and hitherto record-holder – lies in the fact that the caseback also acts as the main plate. Then, Bulgari distinguishes itself by the manufacturing method, by design, by the materials used. The caseback is made of tungsten carbide, while the bezel and bracelet are made of titanium.

The entire dial is quite unusual. Besides the QR code – creatively implemented in a wristwatch – this timepiece displays time in an original manner. The hours and the minutes are displayed on two separate, individual counters to avoid layering the components, in favor of a horizontal alignment.

The above model was launched in May 2022. And just when things seemed clear and established on this segment, a new record-setting timepiece hit the market.

Ladies and Gentlemen, we proudly present you Richard Mille, with the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari model, only 1.75mm thick.

Did anyone expect victory to be declared in favor of Richard Mille, so shortly after the launch of Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra? The answer is definitely no. Not so soon at least.

This watch brand, though, pushed the accelerator, distanced itself from its competitors and launched the new model, winning the race for the thinnest watch in the world (at least for the time being). A watch that also distinguishes the brand from its predecessors. First of all, Richard Mille manages to assemble the 1.18mm manual-winding movement inside the case, without using the caseback as a main plate. The aim is to provide greater shock resistance.

If you remember, both Piaget and Bulgari resorted to this technique of basically integrating the movement into the case and making the latter part of the actual mechanism.

In 2021, Richard Mille establishes a new partnership with Ferrari, based on this watch concept developed by Richard Mille 5 years earlier. Since then, they have been working on this model, the first one to be part of this collaboration. The result of over 6,000 hours of research and development, the timepiece is launched in a limited edition of 150 pieces.

In terms of design, all the watches on the podium are very different, each with its unique aesthetics. In the case of Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari, the appearance of the dial is dictated by the technical and functional goals. The parts of the movement are made of Grade 5 titanium (an alloy of titanium, aluminum and vanadium), to achieve optimal flatness. The left side of the dial is dominated by the two crowns, perfectly integrated into the case and intended to set the time. They are surrounded by ceramic inserts that also help ensure the 10-meter water-resistance. Other design elements are dictated by the collaboration with Ferrari, such as the (not very subtle) logo on the right side of the dial.

If we were to give our opinion, among the three ultra-thin models ranking highest on the list of the thinnest watches in the world, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept comes across as a rather conventional timepiece, while Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra and Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari are more innovative, calling attention to the technical and functional features of the watches.

Instead of a conclusion, we are happy to see evolution, ambition and – most importantly – results of research and development in the field of high-class watchmaking. Brands compete against one another to set new standards and break new records – which is to be admired and brought to everybody’s attention. How they do it depends on each individual brand, almost all of them sacrificing one feature of the whole watch and coming up with their own vision on how to set a record.

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