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In 2019, Christophe Claret is celebrating a double anniversary: the 30th anniversary of his Manufacture and the 10th anniversary of his brand.

For this special occasion, the brand launches a limited edition anniversary watch, the Angelico Tourbillon.

For the first time within a wristwatch, the Angelico model combines a tourbillon with a long detent escapement and a cable-type fusee transmission system. When the quest for absolute precision becomes a fascinating show.

The Angelico model is a contemporary tribute to the quest for absolute precision embodied by the 18th century marine chronometers. This mechanical feat broadening the horizons of traditional horology is complemented by an instant-jump dual-time display complete with day/night and 72-hour power-reserve indications.

Named after Italian Renaissance “painter of angels”, Fra Angelico, this timepiece celebrates the noble pedigree of the watchmaking art. An art that deserves a capital A: truly “Art for Art’s sake”, according to Christophe Claret.

Successfully equipping a wristwatch with a tourbillon featuring a traditional long detent escapement, a mechanism originally designed to operate in a perfectly stabilized position, is an authentic challenge taken on by the watchmakers of the “Soleil d’or” Manufacture.

Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, this type of detent escapement first appeared in the 18th century, at a time when watchmakers were competing to create a time-measuring instrument of maximum precision, serving to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea.

Enthroned at the heart of the Angelico watch, the tourbillon performs its stately dance involving one full turn in six minutes, in order to reduce the impact of its inertia. Christophe Claret has focused on two materials renowned for their lightness: the carriage is made of titanium, and the bridges from aluminum (316AL).

In addition to the tourbillon with detent escapement unveiled at the heart of the Angelico model, it is also endowed with the constant force delivered by the cable-type fusee transmission mechanism linked to the double mainspring barrel.

Instead of the chain, whose design is based on the alignment of multiple links, the watchmaker has made the unprecedented choice of connecting the double mainspring barrel to the fusee via a Dyneema nanofiber cable. There are two reasons for this. The first is to optimize efficiency by eliminating all the friction between links entailed by a traditional chain; and the second is to increase and precisely regulate the power reserve.

While super-thin at just 0.18 mm in diameter, meaning the equivalent of three hairs’ breadths, this cable is extremely resistant. By way of example, such a cable is strong enough to pull a weight of nearly 10 kilos. At the foot of the barrel fitted with two superimposed springs, designed to achieve optimal performance, the winding of the cable drives the 72-hour power reserve indication, while the “stop work” indication, placed on the fusee bridge, indicates the end of the barrel winding.

At the heart of the Angelico watch, the performance of the show staged by time is also measured by the readability of the indications. The two time zones are thus indicated via a jumping hour display appearing in counters at 5 and 7 o’clock, along with a day/night indication. To ensure an unobstructed view of the mechanism’s inherent beauty, the minutes are displayed by a peripheral hand adorned with a natural ruby on the red gold version, and a blue sapphire on the titanium version.

From an aesthetic point of view, the Angelico watch offers a fresh immersion into the beauty of mechanics. Topped by a domed crystal, the 45.50 mm 5N red gold or titanium case makes depth of field its best asset.

The watch is available in two 10-piece limited editions in 5N red gold or titanium.

To mark the occasion, the watchmaker is extending the warranty on all timepieces to five years.

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