I was there when France won the football World Cup in 2018, and I remember I couldn’t sleep a wink that night because of the Parisians’ deafening celebrations. I was also there amid the social tensions of the summer of 2023, in an almost surreal setting: on the one hand, I saw magnificent pieces of almost inestimable value; on the other, I passed many boutiques in Place Vendôme – and beyond – with their windows boarded up against the rioters. Despite these events, it is reassuring to see that some things remain unchanged – such as the triumph of human talent in the field of jewellery, which has once again been transformed into true works of art.

The Maison, which hardly needs any introduction, continues its glorious journey through its famous bestiary, seeming to become more vivid, spectacular and rich in detail – and in gemstones, of course – with each passing year. In the words of Jacqueline Karachi, Creative Director of High Jewellery at Cartier, it is a collection of ‘expressive jewellery which showcases the attitudes and personality of an animal, its vitality […].  This is the spirit of Nature Sauvage.’ 

In the magnificent setting of The Ritz Lounge, with its unique floral arrangements, Cartier has recreated a jungle – but with Parisian chic. The crocodile and the panther – creatures often used as motifs by Cartier – seem ready to leap from their exceptional settings, appearing friendly, playful and, of course, utterly elegant. The lace necklace adorned with coral, emeralds, diamonds and sapphires is a triumph of Art Deco geometry. Yet, there was another necklace that I admired even more, where a panther, crafted in gold, onyx, diamonds, and emeralds, rests contemplatively on elements made from the same precious stones. The feline’s graceful silhouette evokes the image of a beautiful woman who is lost in reverie yet poised to pursue new adventures. Or perhaps a new prey…The tense silhouette of the tiger that adorns another necklace in this new chapter of Nature Sauvage is much more dynamic, even aggressive, perhaps due to its articulated paw, ready to seize whatever it desires. The realism of the tiger is further accentuated by the precious stones that make it stand out: white, yellow, orange and brown diamonds, as well as onyx. 

I could not end this section on Cartier without mentioning the Maison’s signature piece: the Tutti Frutti necklace. Unmistakably Parisian, it presents a seemingly random mixture of many coloured stones, yet the effect is amazing. And then there is my personal favourite – an apparently simple brooch, but in fact a masterpiece capable of recreating the mystery and fascination of the cherry blossom.   

The Chaumet company was born during the glory days of the Napoleonic imperial family, for whom they created their famous tiaras and other fabulous pieces, such as the belt displayed in the brand’s salons at Place Vendôme for the launch of the new haute joaillerie collection, Bamboo. 

But before I tell you more about the latest pieces, I would like to mention the mini-exhibition of historical jewellery by Chaumet. It is set out in two chronologically organised rooms, offering a fascinating and welcome contextualisation: the pieces designed by Chaumet are presented alongside summaries of the most significant events of their respective periods. It is truly fascinating to follow the evolution of jewellery design in parallel with explanations of the historical contexts. And, of course, it is sad to witness the disappearance of that wonderful insouciance of the Belle Époque and see it replaced with the turmoil and feverish unrest brought on by the two World Wars, the Jazz Age and everything that followed during the troubled 20th century. 

To come back to the Bamboo collection: it is, as the name suggests, a tribute to Asian history and culture, as well as to the elegance and resilience of bamboo. The Maison’s source of inspiration was a very old drawing by one of the founders, depicting a fragment of an Asian landscape, with bamboo plants included. In Chinese culture, the bamboo symbolises integrity, while in Japan it evokes tenacity and modesty. The centrepiece of the collection is the necklace featuring a spectacular 13-carat Australian black opal, surrounded by tsavorites and diamonds. I also loved the idea of creating stylised leaves in yellow gold with a satin finish, which manage to blend seamlessly into the architecture of the piece. Continuing the trend of modularity in haute joaillerie, Chaumet also presented a brooch that can double as a hair accessory, as well as, separately, a pair of brooches – either for best friends to share, or to achieve perfect symmetry in an outfit. Of course, the tiara – Maison Chaumet’s signature piece – could not be left out of this collection, and it is a very special creation, at once minimalist and striking, adorned with diamonds and, once again, yellow gold leaves. 

‘Vive Victoire de Castellane!’ I said to myself as soon as I set foot in the mysterious Villa Dior nestled in the heart of Paris. I soon found myself wandering around the magnificent garden, created to showcase the latest designs by Dior’s jewellery designer, who continues to amaze us with each new collection. Her enduring fascination with nature is the creative force behind some of the most extraordinary jewellery pieces in the history of mankind – pieces that will undoubtedly remain just as original and spectacular two or three centuries from now. 

Dior Milly Dentelle is the name of the new haute joaillerie collection – a love letter from Victoire de Castellane to nature, to elegance, to daring to be different. Much like Christian Dior’s New Look collection of 1947 (whose silhouettes could be glimpsed in the garden of the Dior Palace), these pieces break barriers and defy conventions, while remaining elegant, impeccable and chic. 

I spent a long time admiring – and yearning for – the delicate lacework of diamonds, rubies and sapphires, and the little pearl clouds dreamed up by Victoire. Seeming imperfections, asymmetry, unexpected elements (tiny creatures, flowers), transparency, sparkle – a gloriously blooming garden, a universe where you would wish to spend every moment, inspired by Christian Dior’s garden at Milly-la-Forêt. White, yellow and rose gold; necklaces, rings, earrings; diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls, sapphires, rubellites, tourmalines – it would probably have taken me a week to analyse, understand, and enjoy it all. 

There are not many things that excite me about the times we live in, but being a contemporary of Victoire de Castellane, with the opportunity to admire her creations, is definitely one of them. 

La joie de vivre is the first thing that comes to mind when I think of the haute joaillerie creations by Piaget – a Maison synonymous with the elegance and extravagance of the Riviera during its most exuberant days. Every year I look forward to the Piaget presentation because it gives me the opportunity to try on these unique creations. And yes, of course, I can imagine hundreds of women in my family tree expressing their delight and coquetry when I wear a ring with a unique sapphire, or a necklace adorned with magnificent stones and (unusually) tassels, as I did in the Piaget Apartment – the perfectly elegant salons at the Place Vendôme. But beyond that, I also felt the pleasure of a journalist in love with savoir-faire, being allowed to see and touch these triumphs, great or small, of the human hand, eye and imagination. 

Essence of Extraleganza is the name of this new collection – a fusion of elegance and extravagance, as I said above: bold pieces with an impossible-to-ignore presence, and a strong yet very feminine silhouette. It is designed for women who know how to enjoy life, embrace their femininity, and celebrate the battles they win every day. The light and silky-soft titanium bracelet set with a rainbow of stones, the ring featuring an exceptional sapphire that had me contemplating a very large bank loan, the titanium necklace/scarf with 1,500 stones, and the cuff bracelet sparkling in shades of pink sapphires and spessartites – they all form a collection that is both spectacular and wearable, a true testament to the brand’s nearly 151-year legacy. 

I wouldn’t want to end this article dedicated to beauty without mentioning the ‘Paris, City of Pearls’ exhibition, organised by L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts, in partnership with Van Cleef & Arpels. It is a fascinating exploration of the French love affair with fine pearls – a wonderful history of unique creations. If you find yourself in Paris any time soon, I highly recommend a visit – you won’t regret it. From opulent five-strand necklaces to Art Nouveau pendants of ravishing beauty, it is easy to understand why pearls have always been fascinating, and always will be. In fact, after complimenting me on my own pearl necklace, the exhibition curator delightedly told me that many women visit the exhibition wearing the necklaces they had inherited from their great-grandmothers, rediscovering the elegance and originality of generations now lost to history. The exhibition is open to the public at the Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau until 1 June.